How to install your
Canvas & Ivy wallpaper
Everything you need for a clean, professional install — from wall prep to the final trim. Choose your material below.
Traditional (Paste-the-Wall)
Our most popular material. Apply paste directly to the wall, hang dry panels. Produces the most durable, professional finish. Repositionable for about 10 minutes before the paste sets.
Tools & Supplies
Essential
- Wallpaper paste (non-woven / paste-the-wall type)
- Paint roller + tray (for paste application)
- Smoothing tool or plastic smoother
- Sharp utility knife + extra blades
- Metal straight edge or wide putty knife
- Level or laser level
- Tape measure + pencil
- Step ladder
- Clean sponge + bucket of water
- Seam roller
Recommended
- Drop cloths for floor protection
- Wallpaper primer / sizing
- Plumb bob or chalk line
- Small brush for corners and edges
- Outlet cover removal tool (flat screwdriver)
Wall Preparation
Step-by-Step Installation
Pattern Matching & Seam Alignment
Canvas & Ivy wallpaper is designed with precise repeat alignment, so pattern matching is straightforward if you follow one rule: match at eye level first, then work outward.
When hanging your second panel, hold it loosely against the wall and slide it up or down until the pattern aligns with the first panel at about 5 feet off the ground. Once eye-level is matched, smooth the rest of the panel into place. Small variations at the ceiling or baseboard are invisible — eye level is what people actually see.
For straight-match patterns (the pattern repeats at the same point across panels), every panel starts at the same position. For drop-match patterns, alternating panels shift down by half a repeat. Check the product page for your pattern's repeat type.
Tip: Dry-hang your first two panels (hold them up without paste) to confirm the pattern alignment before committing. This 30-second check can save you a lot of frustration.
Cutting & Trimming
Always use a sharp blade. This is the single biggest factor in getting clean edges. A dull utility knife drags and tears the paper. Swap in a fresh blade every 3–4 cuts.
For ceiling and baseboard cuts: press the wallpaper firmly into the crease where the wall meets the ceiling (or baseboard) using your straight edge or wide putty knife. Hold the straight edge in place and run your utility knife along it in one smooth stroke. Don't saw back and forth — one clean pull.
For window and door frames: smooth the wallpaper over the frame edge, make a relief cut at a 45-degree angle into the corner, then trim along the frame with your knife and straight edge.
Corners & Outlets
Inside corners
Don't try to wrap a full panel around an inside corner — it will buckle and crease. Instead, measure from the last panel edge to the corner, add ½ inch, and cut the panel to that width. Hang the cut piece so the ½-inch excess wraps around the corner. Then start the next wall with a new plumb line and overlap the wrapped edge slightly with the first panel of the new wall.
Outside corners
Wrap the panel around the outside corner by about 1 inch. Smooth it flat. Start the next panel on the new wall, overlapping the wrapped edge. If the pattern needs to be continuous, use a double-cut technique: overlap the panels by 2 inches, then cut through both layers with a sharp knife and remove the excess underneath.
Outlets & switches
Make sure the power is off at the breaker. Hang the wallpaper over the outlet box, then feel for the edges of the box through the paper. Cut an X from corner to corner of the box with your knife, fold back the flaps, and trim neatly along the edges. Reattach the cover plate over the wallpaper for a clean finish.
Troubleshooting
Small bubbles usually disappear as the paste dries (give it 24–48 hours). For larger bubbles, use a pin to poke a tiny hole, then smooth the air out toward the hole with your finger or smoother.
Apply a small amount of seam adhesive (available at any hardware store) behind the lifted edge using a small brush. Press flat and roll with your seam roller. Wipe excess immediately.
If the pattern is off by more than ⅛ inch, carefully peel the panel back while the paste is still wet and reposition. If the paste has already set, it's better to remove and rehang than to force it — the misalignment will bother you every time you walk past it.
This usually means too much paste was applied. Immediately wipe the surface with a clean, damp sponge. For future panels, use a thinner, more even coat.
The paste may be too wet or the wall wasn't primed. Support the panel with painter's tape at the top while it tacks up. For future panels, let the paste get slightly tacky (30–60 seconds) before hanging.
Removal
Modern non-woven wallpaper (like Canvas & Ivy Traditional) is designed to strip cleanly. Start at a bottom corner and pull the panel slowly upward at a 45-degree angle. If it resists, score the surface lightly with a scoring tool, spray with warm water or wallpaper removal solution, wait 10–15 minutes, and try again.
If you applied wallpaper primer before installation (as we recommend), removal will be significantly easier. The primer creates a release layer between the paste and the wall surface.
After removal, wipe down the wall with a damp sponge to remove any remaining paste residue. Let dry, then spackle and sand any minor damage before repainting or re-wallpapering.
Pre-Pasted (Water-Activated)
The adhesive is already on the back — just activate with water. No paste bucket, no tray, no mess. Bonds strongly to painted or primed drywall. The cleanest DIY option for a permanent install.
Tools & Supplies
Essential
- Water tray (long enough to submerge a rolled panel)
- Clean warm water
- Smoothing tool or plastic smoother
- Sharp utility knife + extra blades
- Metal straight edge or wide putty knife
- Level or laser level
- Tape measure + pencil
- Step ladder
- Clean sponge
- Seam roller
Recommended
- Drop cloths (water drips during activation)
- Spray bottle (for touch-up activation)
- Wallpaper primer / sizing
- Plumb bob or chalk line
- Small brush for edges
Wall Preparation
Step-by-Step Installation
Pattern Matching & Seam Alignment
Same approach as Traditional: match at eye level first. Hold the wet panel loosely against the wall and slide it into alignment before smoothing. You have about 5 minutes of repositioning time with pre-pasted before the adhesive grabs.
Because the paper is wet, it expands slightly. Make sure each panel is booked for the same amount of time (3–5 minutes) so they all expand equally. Inconsistent booking times cause panels to dry at different widths, which creates gaps at the seams.
Cutting & Trimming
Pre-pasted paper is wet when you trim it, which makes clean cuts slightly harder. Wait 2–3 minutes after smoothing before trimming — the paper firms up slightly as the adhesive starts to set, giving you a cleaner edge.
Use the same technique: press your straight edge into the crease and run a fresh blade along it in one smooth pull. Change blades frequently — wet paper dulls blades faster.
Corners & Outlets
Same technique as Traditional. Don't wrap full panels around corners. Measure, cut, wrap ½ inch, and start a new plumb line on the next wall. For outlets, make sure power is off, hang over the box, cut an X, and trim to the edges.
Troubleshooting
The paper may not have been submerged long enough, or the water was too cold. Re-activate the area with a damp sponge or spray bottle. If the wall wasn't primed, the surface may be too porous — adhesive absorbs into raw drywall instead of bonding.
Smooth from center outward with firm, even pressure. Most small bubbles dry flat within 24–48 hours. For stubborn bubbles, pin-prick and smooth.
This happens when panels were booked for different durations, causing uneven shrinkage. Apply seam adhesive to close gaps. For future panels, book every panel for exactly the same time.
The panel may have expanded unevenly. Peel it back gently while still wet and rehang, smoothing slowly from the top. Don't try to stretch wrinkled paper flat — peel and reposition.
Removal
Score the surface lightly with a wallpaper scoring tool. Spray generously with warm water or wallpaper removal solution. Wait 15 minutes for the water to reactivate the adhesive. Start at a bottom corner and peel upward at a 45-degree angle.
Pre-pasted adhesive reactivates with water, so removal is generally straightforward. If you primed the wall before installation, the paper should strip cleanly in full sheets. Clean residual adhesive with a damp sponge after removal.
Peel & Stick
No paste, no water, no booking time. Peel the backing and press to the wall. Fully repositionable and removes without wall damage. Requires very smooth walls for best adhesion.
Tools & Supplies
Essential
- Smoothing tool or plastic smoother
- Sharp utility knife + extra blades
- Metal straight edge or wide putty knife
- Level or laser level
- Tape measure + pencil
- Step ladder
- Clean microfiber cloth
Recommended
- Isopropyl alcohol (for degreasing walls)
- Hair dryer (helps adhesion on stubborn spots)
- Painter's tape (temporary alignment guide)
Wall Preparation
Step-by-Step Installation
Pattern Matching & Seam Alignment
Peel-and-stick is the easiest to pattern-match because the paper doesn't expand or shrink. What you cut is what you hang. Align at eye level, press into place. If it's off, peel back and reposition — no time pressure.
The tradeoff: seams are slightly more visible with peel-and-stick because there's no wet paste to fill micro-gaps between panels. Butt edges as tightly as possible and press firmly along every seam.
Cutting & Trimming
Peel-and-stick cuts cleanly because it's dry. Use a fresh blade and straight edge. One smooth pull along the ceiling crease and baseboard crease. No waiting for paper to firm up.
For window and door frames: smooth the paper over the frame edge, make a diagonal relief cut into the corner, fold the flap back, and trim cleanly.
Corners & Outlets
Same principles: don't wrap full panels around corners. Cut the panel so ½ inch wraps around, then start fresh with a new plumb line on the next wall. For outlets, hang over the box, feel for edges, cut an X, fold and trim. Make sure power is off.
Peel-and-stick tip: Corners are where peel-and-stick is most likely to lift over time. After wrapping the ½-inch overlap, press it firmly and optionally hit it with a hair dryer for 15 seconds — the heat activates the adhesive for a stronger bond on the fold.
Troubleshooting
The wall surface isn't smooth enough, or there's dust/grease preventing adhesion. Peel off, clean the wall thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol, let dry, and rehang. If the wall has any texture, peel-and-stick may not be the right material — consider Traditional or Pre-Pasted instead.
Press firmly along all edges and seams. Use a hair dryer on low heat for 10–15 seconds along any lifting edge — the warmth reactivates the pressure-sensitive adhesive. For persistent lifting, apply a thin line of clear seam adhesive behind the edge.
Peel the panel back past the bubble and resmooth. If the bubble is small, you can press it toward the nearest edge with your smoother. Unlike paste methods, peel-and-stick bubbles won't dry flat on their own — they need to be physically smoothed out.
This is rare with quality peel-and-stick, but if it happens, apply a small amount of Goo Gone or isopropyl alcohol to a cloth and wipe the residue. Don't scrub — just let the solvent dissolve the adhesive, then wipe clean.
Removal
Start at any corner and peel slowly at a 45-degree angle. No water, no scoring, no tools needed. Peel-and-stick is designed to remove cleanly without damaging the wall surface.
If the wallpaper has been up for a long time (1+ years) and resists removal, use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive section by section before peeling. The heat softens the bond and makes it release more easily.
After removal, wipe the wall with a damp cloth to remove any dust. No spackle or repair should be necessary if the wall was in good condition before installation.
Ready to start?
Order a 9″ × 13″ sample to test the material in your space before committing to rolls. Every pattern is available in all three materials.